The oldest cathedral building in the world still in use, and it started life as the mausoleum of the emperor who persecuted the man it is now named after. The bell tower beside it gives you the best view in Split for the price of 183 steps.
By Marin Perić
Diocletian ordered the execution of Domnius, the bishop of nearby Salona, during the last great persecution of Christians. Three centuries later, Christians converted the emperor's octagonal mausoleum into a cathedral and dedicated it to Domnius. Diocletian's sarcophagus was removed and has never been found.
Domnius was bishop of Salona, the Roman capital twenty minutes away in Solin.
Split still marks his day on 7 May — see the Feast of St Domnius.
The bell tower is Romanesque, rebuilt in the early twentieth century, and the climb is 183 steps of open stone staircase. If you are uneasy with heights or gaps underfoot, this one will find out. The view from the top — palace roofs, the Riva, Marjan, the islands — is the single best thing you can do in Split for ten euros.
Tickets are sold at the door and as part of a combined palace ticket. Shoulders and knees covered inside the cathedral. Go before 10:00 or after 17:00 in summer; the staircase is single-file and a cruise group will cost you twenty minutes.
The combined ticket also covers Diocletian's cellars.
For the rest of the palace around it, read the Diocletian's Palace guide.
Climb the bell tower first, before the cathedral — it is the thing you queue for, and the view is better in the morning light. Then go down and into the cathedral, which is small and quick. The baptismal font in the baptistery next door is the original Temple of Jupiter, and it is the one part of the complex people skip — go in, because it is a Roman temple with a medieval font dropped into it, and there is usually no one there.
If a cruise group is going up the tower as you arrive, wait at the bottom for twenty minutes — they move in a block and the staircase clears. The ticket office does not tell you this because they do not track the groups, but the tower is narrow enough that you will spend your climb pressed against the wall. The locals go up at eight, before the ticket office opens, which is technically not allowed and which is why the gate at the bottom now locks.
Get out there
Guided trips that include this stop, with live availability.
History
Ninety minutes through the palace with a guide who lives inside it: the Golden Gate, the cellars, the Peristyle, the cathedral and the streets in between. Small group, no flag, and a proper explanation of why a Roman emperor retired to a cabbage patch in Dalmatia.
Within a short walk.
History
The colonnaded courtyard at the centre of Diocletian's Palace, where the emperor appeared to his subjects and where Split now drinks wine on the steps. Free, roofless, and the best-preserved Roman square you can sit down in.
Food & drink
Four or five hours that start at the green market and the fish hall and end with you eating what you bought. The good ones shop first, which is the half that teaches you something: how to tell this morning's fish from yesterday's, and what is actually in season.
History
Ninety minutes through the palace with someone who can explain what you are looking at. Worth it on your first morning: the palace makes far more sense with a guide, and everything you do afterwards is better for it.
History
Diocletian's Palace is free: its lanes, the Peristyle, the domed Vestibule and the central passage through the cellars are open at all hours with no gate. You pay only for interiors — the side halls of the cellars (€10 for adults as of October 2026) and the cathedral, bell tower, crypt, treasury and Temple of Jupiter, ticketed separately. Built around AD 305, it is still full of homes, bars and shops.
Food & drink
The layer between the Riva and the clubs: small cocktail rooms, jazz corners, hostel bars and neighbourhood cafés that turn into bars after nine. This is where the local crowd drinks, it costs about a third less than the seafront, and it is the part of Split nightlife that still works in February.
Food & drink
The nine-until-midnight part of a Split night, and the best of it. Small cellars and side rooms inside Diocletian's Palace pour Dalmatian wine by the glass with no music you have to shout over. Arrive before nine if you want a table, and leave around midnight when the lanes empty.
Culture
Split's palm-lined seafront promenade, and the city's actual living room. Locals walk it at seven every evening, coffee lasts an hour, and nobody is in a hurry. Free, always open, and the correct place to watch the light go orange on the palace wall.
Food & drink
Three and a half hours through the green market, the fish market and four family-run places inside the palace, eating soparnik, pršut, Pag cheese, fresh anchovies and rožata. Enough food to replace lunch, with the context that makes Dalmatian cooking make sense.
Family
The most Split thing you can do for ten euros. Poljud is a listed 1979 shell of a stadium, the Torcida have been going since 1950, and a mid-table league game on a Saturday night tells you more about this city than any walking tour will.
History
The vaulted basement halls that held up the emperor's apartments, preserved because they were filled with rubbish for a thousand years. The best-surviving Roman substructure anywhere, ten degrees cooler than the street, and the one part of the palace that looks like a ruin.
Culture
The villa Ivan Meštrović built for himself on Marjan's south slope, now the best museum in Split. Sculpture inside, a garden of bronzes with a sea view outside, and the Kaštelet chapel with his wooden reliefs five minutes down the road.
Culture
Inside the palace for atmosphere and noise, Varoš for stone lanes and quiet, Bačvice for the beach and the nightlife, Meje for calm and views, Žnjan for space and value. Split is small enough that none of them is a bad choice — they are just different holidays.
Culture
Yes, for two to five days, and most of all in June or September. Split is a Roman palace that people still live in, with beaches in town and the islands an hour away by boat. It is not worth it for a party-free week in mid-August, or for anyone who wants sand and silence.
Culture
Base yourself in Split if you want islands, day trips, beaches and a city that is still a city. Choose Dubrovnik for two or three nights of the most complete walled town on the Adriatic. For a week, Split; for a long weekend, either; with ten days, both — four to five hours apart.
History
You do not need a shore excursion in Split. The cruise berths and the tender landing are a five-to-fifteen-minute walk from Diocletian's Palace, and the whole old town is walkable. Four hours covers the palace; six adds Marjan or a swim; eight lets you add Trogir or Klis by local bus.