What it is actually like
Žnjan is the modern beach strip east of the centre — recently rebuilt with a wide promenade, sports courts, beach clubs, ramps and shaded pavilions. It is the longest beach in Split and the only one with real space in August, and it is the most accessible beach in the city. The new planting has not grown up yet, so there is no natural shade — bring an umbrella or rent a sunbed.
Sunbed prices, shade and the water are covered in the Žnjan beach guide.
How to not feel like a tourist here
Žnjan is where Split families come with children, because it has space, ramps, a promenade and sports courts, and because the beach clubs at the eastern end are busy enough to be fun without being the Bačvice scene. Walk the promenade in the morning, swim at the western end where it is quieter, and eat at one of the cafes on the promenade rather than the beach clubs — the food is the same and the prices are lower.
If you are staying in Žnjan, you are staying here for the beach and the space, not for the old town. It is a bus ride or a forty-minute walk along the seafront to the palace, which is fine in the morning and a long way at midnight. Rent a bike or a scooter if you want to move between the two faster — the seafront path is flat and continuous.
For older children, the water-sports concession on Žnjan runs parasailing, jet skis and banana boats.
Where to eat
The cafes on the promenade are the practical choice for breakfast and lunch — coffee, pastries, sandwiches. For dinner, take the bus into town, because Žnjan's restaurants are beach clubs and pizza places rather than konobas. The one exception is the seafood place at the harbour, which is worth the walk if it is open.
Practical
Bus 8 or 17 from the centre, about fifteen minutes, or a forty-minute walk along the seafront past Bačvice and Firule. The promenade is flat and fully accessible, with ramped entries into the water at several points. Bring an umbrella — there is no natural shade until the new trees grow, which will take a few years.
The walk into town passes Bačvice, the city beach and the only proper sand near the palace.
Where to stay in Split
Things to do in Split
The best beaches in Split