Split's city beach, and the only proper sand within walking distance of the palace. Shallow for fifty metres, which makes it excellent for small children and the reason picigin — Split's own barefoot ball game — was invented here.
By Marin Perić
A small ball, five players, ankle-deep water, and no points. The aim is to keep the ball off the water for as long as possible, with as much diving as possible. It was invented on this beach in 1908 by Split students back from Prague, it is on Croatia's list of protected intangible heritage, and there are men who play it here on New Year's Day. If you want to join a game, ask — most regulars would rather have you in than not, and the standard is forgiving.
How to join a game: picigin at Bačvice.
In July and August, Bačvice at midday is packed, loud and not remotely relaxing. The sand is hot, the water is full of people, and the music from the beach bars carries. Come at eight in the morning or after six in the evening and it is one of the best things about living in Split — the sand is cool, the water is calm, and the picigin players are out. If you want a quiet swim in high season, go to Kašjuni instead.
When it is full, Firule is the same sand with a fraction of the noise.
Free, with showers, changing rooms and a cafe. Sunbeds are €15–20 in summer. The water is shallow for fifty metres, which is why it is full of children and why picigin works here. There is a lifeguard in season. The beach clubs behind the beach open at ten and close at three or four in the morning, depending on the night.
The clubs behind the beach are covered in the Bačvice beach clubs.
Staying here? See the Bačvice neighbourhood.
Come before nine or after six. The beach at midday in August is the one you have been warned about — packed, loud, and full of people who arrived on coaches. The same beach at eight in the morning is where the picigin regulars are, and the regulars have been playing here for decades. Watch for a few minutes, ask to join, and the standard is forgiving — they would rather have you in than not, and the game is the point, not the winning.
Do not rent a sunbed. The sand is wide and free, and the sunbeds are for people who do not know the sand is free. Bring a towel, a hat and a bottle of water from a shop, not from the beach bar, and sit on the sand at the eastern end — the far end from the tunnel entrance, where the locals are. The water is the same depth all the way along, and the crowd thins as you walk east.
Eat at the bakery on the street behind the beach, not at the beach bar. A burek and a coffee is breakfast for under €5, and the beach bar will charge you €12 for the same thing with a view of the sand you can see anyway. The picigin players bring their own — a thermos of coffee and a pastry, eaten on the wall above the sand at seven.
Right now · Autumn
The best time to be here. The sea holds 24 °C through September and about 21 °C into October, the August crowd has gone, and the beach bars are still open. Bring a layer for after your swim — the evening air cools faster than the water.
Within a short walk.
Adventure
Split's own barefoot ball game, invented at Bačvice in 1908 and played in ankle-deep water with no points and no winner. Free, faintly ridiculous, and the single most Split thing you can do. Locals will let you join if you ask.
Nightlife
Where a Split night ends rather than starts. The row of clubs behind the sand fills from about midnight, runs to three or four in summer, and sits a ten-minute walk east of the Riva, so nobody needs a taxi home. Loud, young and pop-driven — arrive before one and it will feel empty.
Food & drink
Split's best-known fine-dining seafood restaurant, on the first floor of the ACI marina with the whole harbour in front of it. Expensive, precise, and the view genuinely earns part of the bill.
Beaches
A small sandy bay just past Bačvice, in front of the tennis club where Goran Ivanišević learned to play. Shallow, calm and mostly families — the quieter alternative when Bačvice is a wall of people.
Adventure
Wrecks, walls and caves within an hour of the city, on water that is warm from June to October and clear most of the year. A try dive needs no experience and no certificate; a certified single dive is the cheapest way to get wet if you already have a card.
Adventure
The noisy end of the Split waterfront, and the only place near the city with the full concession: parasail, jet ski, banana, tube, pedalo. Nobody will pretend it is authentic. It is, however, exactly what a bored eleven-year-old wants at four in the afternoon.
Beaches
The best beach within reach of the city: white pebbles, clear deep water and pine shade on the south side of Marjan. A beach club at one end, empty rock at the other, and a sunset that faces exactly the right way.
Beaches
On the north shore of Marjan, under dense pine, with concrete platforms and pebble coves, tennis courts, a running trail and a café. This is where Split actually swims — quieter than Bačvice, shadier than Kašjuni, and free.
Beaches
The long, recently rebuilt beach strip east of the centre: wide promenade, sports courts, beach clubs, plenty of space and proper accessible entries into the water. Little shade, but the easiest beach in Split to spend a whole day at with children.
Beaches
A small pebble beach below the Meštrović Gallery, dominated by a diving platform and a café under the pines. Deep water, no crowds and a strong neighbourhood feel — this one is genuinely local.