November is the wettest month in Split and one of the quietest — the airport carries about a fifth of October's passengers — but highs are still around 16 °C and the sea is near 19 °C. Worth it for a cheap, local city break with museums and long lunches; not for boat trips or beach days.
By Marin Perić
Yes, if you come for the city and accept the rain. November is when the season ends with a bang: Split Airport went from about 332,000 passengers in October 2025 to about 62,000 in November. What remains is a working city of cafés, markets and museums with almost no queues. What has gone is the island boats, the beach bars and most tours. It suits walkers, eaters and anyone who likes a place more than a beach.
November is the wettest month of the year at DHMZ's Split-Marjan station — about 120 mm of rain over nine or ten days with at least 1 mm. That still leaves around twenty dry days, and the rain usually comes hard and brief rather than as all-day drizzle. Temperatures are mild: an average high of 15.6 °C and a low of 10.8 °C, and frost is almost unknown. Sunshine averages just over four hours a day, and sunset is around half past four.
Some people do. The sea averages about 19 °C in November — with a ten-year range of roughly 16 °C to 22 °C — and in the first week it can be warmer than the air. Locals keep swimming at Bačvice and below Marjan. For most visitors it is a quick, bracing dip on a sunny day rather than a swim.
Open: the palace (always), the cathedral, the galleries and museums on winter hours, the green market, cafés and most restaurants in the centre.
Shut: beach bars, almost all boat tours and sunset cruises, kayak and paddleboard rental. Many island konobas and hotels close until spring.
Reduced: Krka drops to €7 for adults, but the Skradin boat does not run from November to March.
The state fast boats to Hvar town keep an off-season timetable from 1 January to 28 May and from 28 September to 31 December. On line 9608 that means one sailing a day from Split at 16:00 and one back from Hvar at 07:30 on weekdays, at a winter fare of €6.40 in 2026, and the other year-round fast line through Hvar, towards Vela Luka and Lastovo, also leaves Split in the afternoon and comes back in the early morning. That is a timetable for islanders, not day-trippers — you cannot do Hvar as a day trip on it. Brač is the easy island in the off-season: since January 2026 Jadrolinija has kept at least 12 ferry sailings a day between Brač and the mainland all year.
How the port works: the Split ferry port guide.
1 November — All Saints' Day, a public holiday. Many families visit cemeteries, and some shops close.
18 November — Remembrance Day, a public holiday.
End of November — Advent opens on the Riva and around the Prokurative, with stalls, mulled wine, fritule and free concerts. It runs until 6 January.
Dates and details: Advent in Split.
Do the palace with a guide while you can hear them. Spend an afternoon at the Meštrović Gallery. Walk Marjan between showers. Take a cooking class or a food tour, which are better in a quiet month when the guide has time for questions. On a wet day, the cellars, the museums and the escape rooms are all indoors.
things to do in Split when it rains.
A room with proper heating and somewhere dry to hang a jacket. A table for the weekends. If you want a day trip, check the operator actually runs on your date — winter tours depend on numbers.
Comparing months? Read Split in autumn and
Where these numbers come from: air temperature, rain and sunshine are the 1991–2020 climate normals for the Croatian Meteorological and Hydrological Service (DHMZ) station at Split-Marjan, 122 m up on Marjan hill, as published by the World Meteorological Organization through NOAA. A rain day is one with at least 1 mm. Sea temperature is the ten-year average for Split from seatemperature.info. Daylight and sunset are for the 15th of the month. Passenger figures are from the Croatian Bureau of Statistics.
Get out there
Guided trips that include this stop, with live availability.
Boat trips
A full day on a fast twelve-seat boat: the Blue Cave on Biševo, the Monk Seal cave, Stiniva's famous cove, lunch on Vis and a swim off Budikovac's turquoise lagoon, finishing with a stop at Hvar town. Ten and a half hours, small group, no coach transfer.
History
Ninety minutes through the palace with a guide who lives inside it: the Golden Gate, the cellars, the Peristyle, the cathedral and the streets in between. Small group, no flag, and a proper explanation of why a Roman emperor retired to a cabbage patch in Dalmatia.
Boat trips
Five hours to Šolta and back on a ten-person boat: three swim stops in coves you cannot reach by road, an hour in Maslinica for dinner or a drink, and the run home across the channel as the sun goes down behind the island.