Eat & drink
Split eats well if you walk two streets back from the Riva. These are the konobas, seafood places and bakeries we send visitors to, with price ranges and what to order at each.
Local favourite
Food & drink
Twelve seats at a counter, a blackboard that changes daily, and cooking that is better than places charging three times as much. No reservations, no table service, and a queue outside from seven. Worth the wait.
Local favourite
Food & drink
A small konoba on a Varoš side street doing exactly four things well: grilled fish by the kilo, black risotto, octopus salad and house wine from a jug. No view, no English menu board outside, and a queue by eight in July.
Local favourite
Food & drink
A stone-walled konoba in an alley behind the Matejuška fishing harbour, doing straight Dalmatian seafood without a single flourish. Small, warm and consistently very good.
Local favourite
Food & drink
A tiny sourdough bakery near the Golden Gate that sells out by early afternoon. Proper bread, burek, and the best breakfast pastry in Split for under three euros.
Food & drink
Split's best-known fine-dining seafood restaurant, on the first floor of the ACI marina with the whole harbour in front of it. Expensive, precise, and the view genuinely earns part of the bill.
Food & drink
A high-ceilinged former shop turned bistro, doing modern Mediterranean plates and a serious wine list. The most reliable smart dinner in the centre, and the room is genuinely lovely.
Food & drink
The best ice cream in Split, made in small batches with real fruit and no artificial colours — which is why the pistachio is dull green and the strawberry is pale. Two euros a scoop and a queue that moves.
Local favourite
Food & drink
A working-class canteen on the west harbour, serving big plates of home cooking at prices from another decade. Brusque service, paper tablecloths, fishermen at the next table. Not for a special evening; perfect for a large cheap lunch.