A day plan that works
08:30 catamaran from Split, arriving Hvar town at about 09:30.
Walk up to the Fortica fortress before it gets hot — thirty minutes up, and the view over the Pakleni islands is the picture you came for.
Back down for the square, the cathedral and the arsenal. The arsenal is the one with a theatre upstairs and a cafe in the vaults; the cathedral is worth ten minutes, not more.
Lunch, then a taxi boat to Palmižana on the Pakleni islands for an afternoon swim. The taxi boats leave from the harbour and cost €10–15 return.
Last catamaran back, usually around 18:00–20:00 in summer. Check the time before you get on the taxi boat — the boat back does not wait if you are late.
Honest assessment
Hvar town in August is expensive and busy, and the nightlife reputation is real. Cocktails are €15–20, a sunbed at a beach club is €40+, and the harbour bars are loud until two. If you want quiet, go to Stari Grad or Jelsa instead — same island, a third of the people, and the Stari Grad Plain is a UNESCO site that most day trippers never see.
If you stay overnight
Do. The day-trip version gives you the fortress and a swim and you leave. Staying lets you eat at a konoba that does not face the square, walk out to the Jerolim islet in the morning when it is still empty, and take a speedboat through the Pakleni channel at sunset. Two nights is the right number; one is a tease, three is enough Hvar for most people.
How to not feel like a tourist here
Do not eat on the square. The restaurants on the square are for people who do not know there are restaurants behind the square, and the prices match. Walk one street back — into the lanes behind the cathedral — and look for the konobas with a blackboard and no photographs. The fish is the same fish, the wine is the same wine, and the bill is half. Eat lunch at a konoba that faces the harbour, not the square, because the harbour is where the boats come in and the fish comes off them.
Skip the beach clubs on the Pakleni islands in the afternoon, because that is when the day-trip boats arrive and the beaches fill. Go to Palmižana before ten or after four, and in the middle of the day walk the island paths — the pine forest behind the beach has a botanical garden that almost no one visits. The Jerolim islet, a five-minute taxi boat from the harbour, has a naturist beach on one side and an empty rocky shore on the other, and it is the quietest swim within reach of Hvar town.
If you want to see Hvar without the crowd, go to Stari Grad or Jelsa instead. Same island, a third of the people, and the Stari Grad Plain is a UNESCO Greek agricultural landscape that most day trippers never see. The catamaran from Split goes to Stari Grad as well as Hvar town — take that one, rent a bike, and ride the plain. You will be the only person on it.
Where to go next
The best day trips from Split
Using Split's ferry port
Boat trips and tours